From Threads to Seeds: The Lost Legacy of Dhaka Muslin in "Aster Victorious"
When I set out to write Aster Victorious, I knew I wanted to weave in a piece of history that often goes overlooked. Enter Dhaka muslin—a fabric so fine and delicate it was once called "woven air." While muslin itself is still with us today, this specific type, known for its unparalleled craftsmanship and beauty, has vanished from the world.
Last year, I was lucky enough to visit the Crown to Couture exhibition at Kensington Palace, where I had the incredible opportunity to see a dress crafted from Dhaka muslin. Seeing the fabric up close was a revelation—it’s as exquisite as the legends claim. Researching a book often takes time (this was over a year ago!), but moments like this make it all worthwhile. Plus, they’re an excellent excuse for a day out. See photos attached!
Produced in Bengal (modern-day Bangladesh), Dhaka muslin was a luxury fabric of the highest order. It was so fine that entire garments could be folded into a matchbox. Royals and aristocrats, from the Mughal emperors to European elites, draped themselves in it, paying astronomical sums for the privilege. For context, a single sari of Dhaka muslin could cost the equivalent of a year's income for many artisans. It wasn’t just a fabric—it was a status symbol, a hallmark of refinement, and an art form in its own right.
The Tragic Disappearance of an Art Form
Researching Dhaka muslin was both fascinating and heartbreaking. At its height, it was handwoven by master artisans using the delicate fibers of the phuti karpas plant, a species that thrived along the Meghna River. But as colonialism reshaped global trade, the muslin industry was systematically dismantled. The British, prioritizing their own textile markets, destroyed local production by introducing harsh taxes and promoting industrial alternatives. The artisans were impoverished, and the phuti karpas plant—central to the fabric’s unparalleled quality—disappeared entirely.
This particular muslin, which had taken centuries to perfect, was gone within decades. Today, museums hold remnants of this exquisite fabric, but the skill, the plant, and the community that created it are lost.
The Cost of Loss and the Hope of Preservation
This brings me to something I couldn’t stop thinking about: What if we’d had the foresight to save the seeds of the phuti karpas plant? What if someone had preserved its legacy? The answer may lie in the Svalbard Global Seed Vault.
The seed vault, hidden away in the Arctic, is humanity’s insurance policy against losing biodiversity. It holds millions of seeds from around the world, safeguarding them from natural disasters, wars, or even human neglect. But as remarkable as this effort is, it came too late for the phuti karpas plant—and for countless other species that we’ll never get back. Imagine if those seeds had been saved. Could we revive Dhaka muslin? Could we reconnect with a piece of history that feels almost mythical?
And it makes you wonder, doesn’t it? What treasures might be lurking in our attics? In book one, Ari discovers a trove of vintage ball gowns tucked away in the Hiverton estate. But how much more incredible would it have been to stumble across a cache of lost seeds—rare, forgotten, and brimming with possibility? That very thought planted the seed (pun intended) for this book’s story.
A Reflection on Writing and Research
In Aster Victorious, the Hiverton sisters’ muslin venture isn’t just a nod to a lost art—it’s a celebration of ingenuity and collaboration. Clem’s breathtaking designs, inspired by the intricate beauty of Dhaka muslin, are pushing creative boundaries, while Nick is spearheading the revitalization of this re-emerging industry. And, in true Hiverton fashion, they’ve committed to ensuring that the benefits are shared locally, with artisans and their communities seeing the rewards of their work rather than profits disappearing into distant coffers. Together, they’re weaving a brighter, more sustainable future—one that honors the past while building something entirely new.
Additional Links
- History of Dhaka Muslin – Learn more about this remarkable fabric and its decline.
- Svalbard Global Seed Vault – Discover how the Arctic vault is safeguarding biodiversity.
- The Revival of Dhaka Muslin – Read about recent attempts to rediscover this lost craft.